Let’s Try Piping!

Ham-sensei(Mayuka)

Hello everyone.
In this tutorial, I’ll explain one of my favorite finishing methods: applying piping.

This is a method of wrapping and finishing the seam allowance along the edge.
It is often used for fabric items, and gives the finished piece a neat and elegant look.

It may look a little difficult at first, but I’ll explain each step in order, so let’s take it slowly together ✊˘ᵕ˘

Card case finished with decorative piping
Seam allowance finished with piping

The seam allowance is 7 mm wide.
It's a good width for creating a clean finish without looking too bulky or too narrow.

Materials

Here are the materials you will need:

Piping Fabric

For this project, I prepared cotton sheeting with a thickness similar to that of bed sheets or cotton shirts.
You can also use slightly lighter-weight fabric, although it may be a little more difficult to work with.

This tutorial explains how to make your own piping fabric from scratch. However, if you find this step difficult, you can use commercially available piping tape to make the process easier.

1. Prepare the Piping Fabric

First, prepare the piping fabric.
You can use a plain fabric for a simple look, or choose a printed fabric to add a decorative accent.

① Cut the fabric into 3 cm wide strips at a 45-degree angle, as shown in the photo.

Pressing one edge of the piping tape over by about 5 mm with an iron

② Once the tape is prepared, fold one edge over by about 5 mm and press it with an iron.

Ham-sensei(Mayuka)

There's no need to be too precise about the angle—approximately 45 degrees is fine.
If you'd like to use leftover fabric from your project, adjusting the angle slightly may allow you to cut more strips from the same piece of fabric.

If your piping fabric has a printed pattern, you may also want to adjust the angle to suit the direction of the design.

It's a good idea to make the piping slightly longer than the edge you plan to cover.

Piping tape can stretch and shrink in unexpected ways, so treat it like it has a mind of its own! It's usually best to adjust the length at the very end.

Make the Tape Longer Than Needed and Trim It Later

Adjusting the length of the piping tape while sewin

Rather than trimming the tape to its final length at the beginning, it's best to check the length as you sew. Mark the correct position with a finger crease, as shown in the photo, and trim it afterward.

If you cut the tape to length in advance, it may stretch during sewing, making it difficult to achieve a perfect fit.

2. Cover the Edge with the Piping Fabric

Attaching piping tape along the edge and stitching with a 7 mm seam allowance

① Attach the piping tape to the edge as shown in the photo, and stitch all the way around using a 7 mm seam allowance.

At the curved sections marked with red circles, gently stretch the tape slightly so that it follows the curve naturally.

Because the piping tape is cut on the bias, it has some stretch and can easily conform to curved edges.

However, it can also lose its shape more easily, so take care not to stretch the tape along straight sections while sewing.

Wrapping the edge with piping fabric and pressing it into shape with an iron

② Once the stitching is complete, wrap the edge with the piping fabric and press it into shape with an iron.

The side shown here will be the front side of the finished piece.

Folding the seam allowance and wrapping it with the piping fabric

③ Fold and arrange the seam allowance as shown in the photo, then wrap it with the piping fabric.

Securing the wrapped piping fabric with silk pins

④Once the edge has been folded and wrapped, secure it with silk pins to make the next steps easier.

Topstitching around the edge of the piping from the front side

⑤Once the piping has been wrapped and pressed into shape, topstitch all the way around from the front side, as shown in the photo.

Creating an even line of stitching can be a little challenging at first. If you're not used to it yet, try sewing slowly and take your time.

パイピングの完成

Your piping is now complete.
Were you able to get a sense of the overall process?

In this tutorial, I demonstrated the piping technique while making a box tissue case.

Making your own piping tape from fabrics you love is a great way to expand your design possibilities and add a personal touch to your projects.

The final topstitching step can be a little challenging, but don't be discouraged. With a bit of practice, you'll soon get the hang of it.

(2016.05.11 Mayuka Morimoto)

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